I've been using this one
since the first part of this year. What's that? About 6 to 8 months? It includes unmounted 3-9x44AO blue-illuminated scope with duplex reticle & matte finish + scope mount. I had to do away with the mount and am still of the opinion that the mount was part of a problem.
The Walther Falcon I have isn't technically a springer since it uses a Nitro Piston but, the action, nevertheless, is very much "spring" for all accounts and purposes.
And, to make a point, this package that I got? It broke the scope. No two ways about it and the company that makes the scope agreed with me because they accepted the broken scope in return for a new one that they sent me.
What I found is that, no matter how much I tightened the screws, it would keep inching back wards throwing off my zero. I was confounded as to what the deal was being so new to the world of Air Guns. But, I muddled through it.
I changed the mount system on it and used a Beeman Mount like what is up for the giveaway in the
Scope and Mounts Drawing and another thing I did differently was use the plate behind the mount bracket as shown in the pic below . . .
Really, I duped myself when I got it thinking it had a side wheel AO adjustment. Look out for that. Don't just assume that side wheel there is AO like I did. But I'm green so I can do that, admit it, and, then not look too awfully bad
Nonetheless, it's been a good scope that was within my reach at the time I got it. Probably nothing you'd consider. But you'd asked for what we used and how long we'd had it so I figured I'd answer the call. If nothing else, you'll pick up my mistakes and what I ran into with a spring action type air gun.
What I got from my experience is it is like a board or piece of concrete you'd want to break in reverse consideration to our purposes: Say, if I had this piece of concrete slab I wanted to break, and it was firmly in place upon the ground, and, if I had access to do so, I'd first dig under the concrete to give my energy a place to continue and pass through the concrete. If I did not do this, the blow I'd give it with a sledge hammer would pretty much bounce off and only the first few measurements in depth of the concrete would actually absorb the impact. I'd have to break little pieces off the concrete and therefore actually "dig a hole" in the top of the concrete as I made my strikes to it.
The easiest way to break off a chunk of concrete is to make sure that there is nothing behind it so the energy thrown at it has a place to go completely through through the target thereby breaking off a piece.
Now, if we take that same concept and apply it to my problem with the aforementioned scope BEFORE I put the plate and better mounts on it, my scope had places to go and a "hole behind the concrete" as it were. It had every reason to break. But I was using what came with it and I know for a fact I'd had the thing tightened down right so I'll pass the buck on that part.
But, when I put the plate on it and used the different mounts, the thing quit moving and it didn't break the scope either. My work done! Tada!
With any springer, this may be an obvious concept that you want to keep in mind as it's not something that is a knee jerk response to me, it may catch you off guard too. Good mounts are just as important as a good scope!
Don't give it a place to run and a place to let the energy to pass on to your scope parts!
The other thing worth mentioning here is that my Walther Falcon Hunter has that shock absorption kit in it too. Now, imagine what it would be like if I didn't have that to help protect my scope!
And, part of the reason I won't be thinking of putting a high dollar scope on it for a while!
Hope this has been of some help!
Portal
