Ah, deburring - I used a swiss file to remove the sharp edges on the tube, before installing the piston/apex seal. The end of the tube has sharp edges where the trigger mechanism fits and also where the cocking lever goes through the tube into piston, alot of force is applied during cocking.
Woo Hoo, there was a small bag in my mail box today with Jim Maccari's return address. It seemed to be to small for the spring I ordered. The old spring was in three pieces and I though it was twice as long. So I decided to reassemble my RWS 34 today. The biggest thing I noticed of the disassembled rifle was the big rusted hand print on the piston. The piston had absolutely no lube from the factory??????????. It was a light brown color without pits or flakes, akin to thin brown paint onto the bare metal piston. Abit of elbow grease and a scotch brite pad had it looking like new money.
The NEW apex seal looked just like the stock RWS seal. Couldn't figure out how to remove the old one and sure won't prizing it off with a screw driver? Solution-CAREFULLY cut it off with my pocket knife. Next puzzle was the hole in the new seal was smaller than the retainer on the piston. After 3 tries of forcing it on I gave up. My fingers simply won't strong enough to force it onto the piston. So I laid the piston seal onto the table-that's the trick! Make sure the face of the seal is against the table and with piston in hand-press the piston down into the seal! Now rotate the seal on the piston to make sure it is centered and not binding? Apply some moly paste behind the Apex seal and avoid getting moly onto the seal.
This is where deburring the tube comes into play, push the piston very carefully into the tube and the seal won't get nicked on the sharp edges, should not be any sharp edges to cut the seal. At this time I installed the barrel and cocking lever, checking for free movement of all the installed parts. I used a plastic butter knife to apply the tar to the spring! Leaving the first and last couple of inches clean of tar.
Make sure you've ate your
Wheaties before attempting to install the spring without a spring compressor. I used about 1 inch of railroad tract to press the trigger block into the tube onto the spring. You compress the spring about 3 inches, but that last half inch is tough to do by yourself. Went pretty smoove, the 2 pins slipped in, but the safety would not! Duh, I installed the trigger 3 times? Had to move a lever back to the correct place and finally the safety installed correctly.
I now carefully cocked the rifle, checked the safety, and bumped it against the carpeted for a few times trying to make the safety fail. It didn't!
I installed the stock an dug up about 30 heavy crosman premier paper box pellets and mounted my worthless crosman 3-9x32 mildot scope and proceeded to zero. Set a milk jug out 10 meters and fired, missed. After about 10 shots was on target and then set it out to thirty yards. I could keep the pellets on the top of the jug- 2inch bulls eye. Sweat was blinding me now and I gave up, had to take a shower, 105 degree heat index was toooo much!
New scope soon and some bench time for a proper zero-I'll be back, when? When the weather cools down
Sam